When restaurateur Rakshay Dhariwal sat down with his sister to discuss the revamp of his existing menu for his South Delhi bar Pass Code Only (PCO), they could not bring anything novel. However, a casual remark by his father brought together the whole concept of his new menu. "Just do something "forbidden", he said and the new 'forbidden menu' was born. MSG, tobacco, poppy seeds, bubble gum and chyawanprash – are some of the controversial and 'forbidden' ingredients he uses in his cocktails.
Chyawanprash is banned in Canada and so, their cocktail 'Ignorance Is Bliss' was born replete with bourbon, chyawanprash, sweet vermouth, coffee and aromatic bitters. Coconuts are banned at the airport and so ‘’Not for Check-In’ was born. Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) is frowned upon so, their cocktail 'Bad reputation' was designed using MSG, citric acid, pistola reposado and more. ‘Oral Fixation’ uses tobacco as one of their ingredients while ‘Opium Den’ has poppy seeds. Their ‘Pass the Dutchie’ uses hash oil, a taboo ingredient despite the increasing legalisation globally. The menu features 12 signature cocktails. Guests receive the menu as a scroll housed in a leather case, an artful presentation designed to mirror Indian miniature-style paintings. Each cocktail is accompanied by stories behind its ‘prohibited ingredient.’
When asked if these ingredients are likely to court controversies, Dhariwal, founder and MD of PCO says the quantity used is minimal and that no banned substances are being used. For instance, poppy seeds are not banned in the country however, opium poppy cultivation is prohibited, under Section 8 of NDPS Act, 1985, except under a license issued by the Central Bureau of Narcotics under Rule 8 of NDPS Rules, 1985.
"Every ingredient we have used has been prohibited, banned or regulated at one place or the other," says Dhariwal, the founder of India’s first speakeasy bar that has a British touch to its interiors and an intimate setting.
Rakshay and Radhika Dhariwal of Pass Code Hospitality
Even the theme of the bar that opened in 2012 compliments the ‘forbidden’ menu. An unassuming phone booth gives way to a cosy bar that opens only when you enter a designated pass code. Pass codes are usually shared on their WhatsApp group or on request, thus, maintaining its loyal customer base. Inside, mixologists and bartenders wait to serve their best curation. The new menu, according to the founder is an ode to India’s evolving cocktail culture. "After dabbling in other ventures, this struck my mind and I knew I had to do something different, not just open a bar where people come drink and go. Here I did not want anyone to walk in. Hence we have a dedicated but expanding customer base. We also use a lot of advanced equipment like rotovap which is a rare feat for any bar in India."
Having lived in India, Australia, South Africa, Singapore, Hungary, the Philippines, and the USA, Dhariwal wanted to bring a global touch to the cocktail scene in India. "Back then I never used to find good cocktails in India except for one or two places. There were the usual LIITs and so on, so I wanted to bring the concept of a speakeasy bar in the country with a unique offering."
PCO Bar was founded by Rakshay and Radhika Dhariwal of Pass Code Hospitality.
