She's just returned from London to Delhi a night before and flew to Mumbai this morning. She has been running a fever and cold, but she remains unfazed and arrives for a line up of interviews.
We are at Jio World Plaza in Mumbai, on the launch day of Ritu Dalmia's latest cafe, 'Diva at the Atrium'. The place has a cool, cafe vibe to it; the service is brisk and the energy is palpable. First section is open to customers now.
Dalmia meets and greets the patrons, readily posing for selfies and often asking if the guests enjoyed the food served. Dressed in a white kurta - that reads, 'Eat like a Diva,' - and a pair of denims, with sports shoes and a red framed pair of spectacles, she sits down for an interview with THE WEEK, after ordering a glassful of chilled water.
Q/ So, it's true all successful people work really hard.
A/ It is not about success or not. I think either you are hardworking or not. There are some people who are very successful but also lazy and some who work 10 times harder than me but who haven't made it. So, I think it's about the work ethos - either you're brought up with it and you have it as part of your character or you don't. Unfortunately for me, I'm a workaholic and I can't help it.
Q/ There's a thrill to be constantly on your toes.
A/ The thrill is, of course, always there. But, as I am getting older, I also realise that at some point in your life, you need to find that crucial balance between work and family, in general. I'm trying to do that now.
Q/ You opened Atrangi in Dubai just last year, and now this in Mumbai. What led you to launch Diva at The Atrium?
A/ Yes, opening a culinary space in Mumbai is exciting for a simple reason that I love the food ethos here. It almost mimics my current state of mind. The food is not fancy or pretentious; it is very easy, with the help of good quality ingredients.
Q/ What are your top three recommendations for someone visiting Diva?
A/ The top three would have to be the Bao Miso eggplant; I absolutely love the sandwich with Siracha and chopped cheddar and the Mac n Cheese.
Q/ You're known for your expertise in Italian cuisine. Tell us how India has taken to Italian food over the years, with so many desi versions all around.
A/ There are different levels of every cuisine. For instance, if you eat Chinese food in China, it would be very different from the Chinese food they serve in London and which they do here in India. But, there's market for each of them and that too, each one is thriving and how. The same goes for Italian cuisine, too. Today, if you were to go to any Dhaba on the highway, they will readily serve you a dish of pasta, made with onions and tomatoes. Someone told me the other day that they make pasta ki sabzi.
Q/ Does this 'Indianisation' or the 'desi-fication' of a foreign cuisine bother you?
A/ Not anymore. I have come to accept it now and it doesn't hurt me anymore. Because, I have no business to decide whether your taste bud is correct or not. I have my palate and you have yours. So, everyone has to have that freedom of choice. And there are different places that will cater to each taste type.
Q/ What's the most outrageous version of Italian cuisine you have tasted in India?
A/ None and never. I have never done it and I will not engage in it because I'm a purist. I will not make it and neither will I eat it. I want Indian cuisine in a pure way and similarly want Italian cuisine in a pure way.
Q/ What are your plans?
A/ I have no clue. I live for the moment. Yesterday, I came back from London, today I spent the morning in Delhi and now the afternoon in Mumbai. Tomorrow, I'll again be in Delhi and then I'm leaving for Milan. So, I can't think beyond that.
Q/ Your contemporaries you look up to?
A/ Camillia Panjabi is definitely one person whom I admire. She used to work at Taj Hotels (as a director on the board of the Taj Hotels for three decades) and started with Masala Zone, Masala Library, etc. She must be 78 now. She, along with her sister and brother-in-law, started all the London restaurants. She was quite something in introducing high-end Indian cuisine to UK. So, I met her recently and it was nice to see the amount of work she has done.
Chef Manish Mehrotra is another person whom I respect. A lot of young chefs like Noeresha Kably who runs Izumi in Mumbai's Bandra, Regi Mathew running Kappa Chakka in Chennai and Bengaluru, are among so many individual entrepreneurs and chefs who are running their various small restaurants etc—all striving for excellence and that is an amazing trend to watch.
Q/ So, what is missing?
A/ I think when we speak about regional food in India, we still tend to refer to Kerala or Chettinad. Therefore, I think the conversation around unexplored territories from various regions across the country is what is missing. But, having said that, it is also true that India doesn't a strong culture of eating out when compared to the west. So, it's also about having a balance.
Q/ Which is more challenging - setting up a restaurant in India or abroad?
A/ Both, have their own set of challenges. In India, the biggest challenge is bureaucracy, given the number of licences you got to take. First, find a location then keep moving in circles to bag a licence for fire, alcohol, etc. But, in the west, the challenges are related to the lack of easy availability of manpower, high costs, low skillsets, among others.
