The sixth Sikh guru, Hargobind Singh, according to popular history, was detained at the Gwalior Fort by Mughal emperor Jehangir, who believed that Singh was planning to avenge the execution of Guru Arjan Dev, the fifth Sikh guru. The latter had refused to convert to Islam. While in prison, he noticed that 52 rajas were held political prisoners. When the guru was eventually freed, Jehangir ruled that the number of rajas who could hold on to panels in the Singh's chola could walk free. Singh had a special chola made, with 52 panels. This was in 1619.
Coincidentally, the same flowing design is now irrevocably linked to Anarkali—the legendary paramour of crown prince Salim (Jehangir). Popularised by Madhubala, who played Anarkali in the 1960s classic Mughal-e-Azam, the multi-panelled kurtas are now a rage among the youth.
Anarkali, which literally translates to pomegranate blossom, is often believed to be Jehangir's slave; others believed she was a courtesan in Akbar's court. Yet others believe that the woman, for whom a beautiful memorial has been constructed in Lahore, was one of Akbar's many wives. There is a famous market named after her in Lahore—Anarkali Baazar.
Yet, history has no conclusive evidence of Anarkali's existence, or her relationship with Akbar or his son. But, as a story of romance, drama, intrigue, bravery and tragedy, Salim and Anarkali continue to be unabashed muses for generations of storytellers and filmmakers.
In the 1953 film titled Anarkali, yesteryear actor Bina Rai played the lead role. The film was a super hit, as was Latha Mangeshkar's all-time hit, 'Yeh Zindagi Usi ki Hai', played out as a mason built a wall around Anarkali. Her existence would have threatened the Mughal empire in many ways. With the last alvida (goodbye), Anarkali was buried alive. Salim, played by late Pradeep Kumar, would never find her again.
Apparently, there were two films made on Anarkali in the silent film era, with Sulochana playing the role both times. But, the most popular Anarkali is undoubtedly the beautiful Madhubala, in the exuberant Mughal-e-Azam. A dashing Dilip Kumar was her Salim.
Anarkali moved on with the times. Many years later, she would figure in a song's lyrics—'chod chad ke apni Salim ki gali, Anarkali disco chali'. Loosely translated, it means that Anarkali gave up on Salim, and headed for a disco bar.
Now, the story of Anarkali is the subject of a Colors TV show, Dastaan-e-Mohabbat. Here, she is neither a poor slave nor a courtesan, or even one of Akbar's many wives. A young Sarfu and her aunt escaped tyranny in their country, and landed in Hindustan, where Jodhabhai (one of Akbar's wives) saves them, and Akbar gives them refuge. Sarfu and Salim become inseparable friends, and Akbar gives the child the name Anarkali when he sees her in an orchard. Salim, as a young prince on a victory spree, falls in love with her simplicity and innocence. There are powerful female characters, with human interactions, and ideas of gender equity, sisterhood, dignity and honour of women. But, how the show will evolve remains to be seen.
One of the most famous dialogues in Mughal-e-Azam is spoken by Prithviraj Kapoor, who played Akbar: Anarkali, hum tumhe jeene nahin denge, aur Salim tumhe marne nahin dega (I will not let you live, and Salim will not let you die). It is apparently not just Salim who will not let Anarkali die. One of the most enduring stories of star-crossed lovers, this show is not going to be the last.