It was about a year and a half back when I visited the Loya at the Taj Palace in Delhi, launched in 2022 by Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, who's been associated with the Taj Hotels for close to 40 years now. I clearly remember the conspicuous absence of Seekh Kebabs and Dal Makhnis on the menu there. It was an attempt at "elevating" the North Indian cuisine and taking it beyond what was known.
Interestingly, that was the dictum that set the ball rolling for the Indian cuisine fine dining restaurant that nudged its patrons to expect the unexpected. And the same thought process went into the launch of Loya's third branch at Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai last week, (the second branch opened in Bengaluru in 2023).
"It is the desire to move beyond what is already known; to explore lesser-known terrains and venture into traditional ways of cooking among the tribes of the hills up north, that led to the founding of Loya in the first place. We've made sure we infuse the way of life as it is lived up north, into our food, by embracing traditional methods of cooking including the Dum, the baghaar, the sigdi, and more," Wadhwa tells THE WEEK, at an exclusive preview of the restaurant on a weekday evening before the formal launch two weeks later.
Loya looks grand and charming, upon entry. It has an inviting foyer that welcomes you and further opens into the restaurant's distinctive bar courtyard, sculpted with natural rocks and boulders and accentuated with a stunning waterfall.
We arrive for dinner, and the place is buzzing, mostly with patrons of the Taj; the ambience is warm with a cheerful vibe. We take our seats on the ‘khatia’ and I spend some time simply soaking in the decor that is beautifully done in vibrant drapes, vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree ‘jaalis’, and colourful corners as if you're seated inside a lively bazaar in a remote land up north, barely a few kilometres from the mountains.
(L) Gud Ke Maan dish, (R) Badana Pearl dessert
A sharp and tangy drink arrives, tasting every close to 'panipuri wala pani,' and that's how we begin the five-course menu that follows. The menu at Loya, a name that means 'gathering for a feast,' in the Pahaadi dialect, is beyond predictable. to a large extent, that is. Of course, it boasts of several 'north Indian' favourites, but with twists, and delightful edits.
Take, for instance, the Sigdi Macchi - this is the Indian salmon in wari spice, but it was its slow cooking over charcoal that made it even more delightful. The Timbri Jheenga that had prawns in a shrub seed marinade with bhang jeera chutney was perfectly spiced and blended well with the sides.
It is the ingredients sourced directly from the hills, that make a difference to every item on the menu, says chef Farukh Sheikh who works with Wadhwa at Loya.
I tasted the Jhakia seeds that were used in the tadka, to temper Dal Jhakia, which is one of the signature dishes on the menu. The tempering, done by the chef right on our table added to the experience as much as it warmed my tastebuds.
From Kangra Khodiya Gosht and Jwala Macchi (white snapper) to Dal Panch Ratani and a variety of rotis, including the Amritsari Wadi Kulcha, the food was lavish and satisfying. It was the tribal way of cooking up North, that made the real difference - "Slow cooking is in our ethos and that is what lends a variety of flavours at Loya," says the chef.
For the first time in 20 years, the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, is launching a new restaurant (the last was the Japanese cult Wasabi by Morimoto in 2004).
In April 2024, the iconic Masala Kraft - an institution in the city's culinary scene shut down, paving the way for Loya, at the same place. Desserts hold a special place at Loya and have a separate, dedicated menu of their own. Spilt for choice, and tempted by sugary savouries, we had three different varieties of desserts for the four of us seated at the table and even as I had vowed to stay off sugar, I was compelled to give in. There was Doodh Jalebi, Badana Pearls, Kulfi Pop, Falooda and so much more, that went into the eight-page dessert menu alone, that it seemed I could return the next day, only to taste the rest of the desserts on the menu.
