Varanasi became a fascination for me ever since I saw the mesmerising pictures of its timeless beauty. It earned a place on my bucket list, for its vibrant ghats, spiritual energy and enduring charm. Being one of the oldest cities in the world—history stretching back to 3,000 years, holding immense, historical, cultural and spiritual significance—I was curious about every part of it.
While the trip to Varanasi was an official one for my partner, my journey was driven by a deep desire to experience the city's spiritual allure firsthand. As we landed in the airport, and rode through the city in a taxi, it felt like any other UP district at first glance. Yet, my eyes were constantly searching for a glimpse of the essence that sets Varanasi apart; something deeper. We chose to stay in a homestay run by local hosts, whose hospitality made us feel truly welcome.
Our day began with a steaming cup of chai served in the traditional matka followed by a delicious breakfast of puri-bhaji and freshly fried jalebis. It was undoubtedly one of the tastiest meals we've ever had. Our first visit was to Banaras Hindu University (BHU), a historic institution renowned for being one of the oldest and most prestigious in India, and possibly one of the largest residential universities in the world. The university main campus is spread over 5.5 sq. km,with about 140 departments. The New Kashi Mandir or Birla temple, too, is there in the campus. BHU has departments ranging from astrology to astrophysics, a unique blend of ancient wisdom and modern sciences.
My first experience of a ghat was at Assi Ghat—the southernmost and one of the largest, and a hub for research scholars and foreign students. It was here that I caught my first sight of the Ganga—majestic and overflowing due to the season, the children playing joyfully in the muddy waters along the banks, adding life to the scene. The river, though flooded, carried an undeniable charm and mystique.The ghats are essentially stairways that lead us down to the sacred Ganges, lifeline of a civilization, carrying faith and tradition in its sacred course. Standing there, I felt a profound sense of connection—like it’s a place where humanity truly embraces the might of nature in all its forms, with reverence and humility.
My next stop was Manikarnika Ghat, which I reached on a traditional bullock cart. Though known as the Ghat of Death, death is not mourned but celebrated here. Death is seen as the ultimate journey towards moksha—eternal freedom of a soul. The bodies are cremated on firewood sourced locally, the continuous flames symbolise the cycle of life and death, while the accompanying chants guide the departed soul toward liberation. This ancient practice reflects the city's profound connection to spirituality and the belief in transcending mortal existence.
That evening, we witnessed the mesmerising Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat, a ceremony dedicated to worshipping the sacred river. The ritual, which lasts nearly an hour, was a symphony of devotion, chants, fire lamps, and rhythmic movements creating an awe-inspiring spectacle. I was deeply moved by the profound respect and reverence shown to the mighty Ganga—a tradition that has been carried forward for over a century.
The next day began with a visit to the sacred Kashi Vishwanath Temple, located about a kilometre away from where vehicles were stopped due to strict security measures. Coming from south Kerala, where temples are traditionally constructed with intricate, age-old designs, I found the modernised style of the northern temples quite distinct.
Once inside, we joined the queue and were blessed with the opportunity to offer prayers from close proximity to the deity, with ample time to soak in the spiritual atmosphere—an experience that felt extraordinary. From within the temple gates, the view of the Ganga was breathtaking. Catching a glimpse of the ghats from that vantage point was truly mesmerising.
Dashashwamedha Ghat, the heart of Varanasi, was crowded yet undeniably my personal favourite. Situated closest to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, it exuded a unique energy and vibe. The sight of large, colourful umbrellas sheltering the purohits, alongside half-naked sanyasis immersed in their rituals, added a surreal charm to the atmosphere. It felt like the true essence of Varanasi came alive here. On the way to Dashashwamedha Ghat for the evening aarti, we came across children dressed as Shiva and Parvati, seeking alms. The sight of a tiny Shiva, tired of his spiritual pretentions, fast asleep in his costume, still drawing offerings from passersby, left me with mixed emotions. While their innocence and the cultural representation were undeniably endearing, it was unsettling to see such cuteness being used as a means for financial gain. It was a poignant reminder of the contrasts that exist within the spiritual and everyday life of Varanasi.
The whole experience of Varanasi would not have been complete without exploring its famous Banaras silk saree shops and vibrant local markets brimming with exquisite handicrafts. The intricate artistry in the sarees and handmade goods was a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Adding to the charm were the bustling streets, the hardworking cart pullers, and the cozy local tea shops, each offering a glimpse into the everyday life of this timeless city.
If given the chance, I would visit Varanasi again and again. I’m certain this city has something new to offer with each visit—its timeless energy, spiritual aura, and hidden treasures never cease to captivate. Varanasi has a way of calling me back, drawing me into its soul with every visit.
Savithri P.S. is an emergency medicine specialist at Aster Medcity, Kochi.
