Irani-chai
Spills Carnatik strains
Nizami-noon
Lulls a Hindusthani tune
Twilight brightens
A dusky ghazal
Moon-song
becomes an orchestra
of many hearts tuned to a symphony
Zardozi of cultures
weave into a multi-hued fabric
blending you and me
into this rich history
Can’t speak Urdu?
Never mind
We understand your smile
Endless love songs
echo in our city
that never slumbers
— 'Raag-Hyderabadi' by Sindhoor Varkoor
A sanctum for lovers of biriyani, Hyderabad is home to more than 26 varieties of this dish. However, the city of pearls is so much more than biriyani and Osmania biscuits (though you ought not to miss either). Welcome to Hyderabad, alias the “lion city.”
Here are a few spots to help you curate the perfect weekend itinerary.
The recently restored Qutb Shahi tombs sprawl over 100 acres, and the royal necropolis could be the perfect start to your Hyderabad day, breathing into it the most exquisite expressions of the Qutb Shahi architecture and stories from history, that will stay with you for a long time. Considered one of the oldest historical monuments in the city, the tombs have grey granites and stucco ornamentation.
Golconda, the “fortified citadel and ruined city” offers a twin experience to the tombs, and reflects the work of both Bahmani sultans and the Qutb Shahi dynasty. A 30-minute drive takes one from the tombs to the structure that once housed the Koh-I-Noor, and is as complex an architectural wonder as the tombs. Golconda was, in fact, the centre of diamond trade, a magnificent fortress that is about 130m high, sustaining ruins of palaces, mosques and a hill top pavilion. Golconda and Qutb Shahi offer a unique understanding of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, and nine kilometres from the fort, you also have the Hussain Sagar lake, an artificial, heart-shaped lake carrying the iconic monolith Buddha statue.
It is now time for the Nizams to make an entrance with the Chowmahalla palace in Motigalli. The palace, a sight to behold for aesthetes, is sumptuous with two courtyards, fountains, lawns, and the Khilwat Mubarak (where the courts were held); all nestled in a tranquil air. The official residence of the Nizams also has a museum that preserves almost everything that was part of the royal rule and life and the clock tower (also known as Khilwat clock), another unique element, that has been operational since 1750. The seat of power of the Asaf Jahi dynasty has a southern courtyard that follows the Neoclassical style and a Northern courtyard that has the Bara Imam that has ornamental stucco work. Beware! The intricate designs on the ceilings and walls can ensnare you for hours; such is the beauty of Chowmahalla, too exquisite to be captured in words.
Another certified favourite is the world’s largest film studio complex, the Ramoji Film City. The structure is almost like a frame narrative with so many nested stories and imagined worlds, too complex to live out in a single day.
Golden tea at golden hour
Hyderabad is almost always synonymous with Irani chai and biriyani, but what are some of the popular chais and chai-spots in the city? Nimrah Café, on Charminar road, serves the stuff of dreams: their iconic Irani chai and assorted biscuits. If you are in Secunderabad, remember to visit Blue Sea, for the star of the café, their golden tea, paired with some authentic Osmania biscuits. Pista House is the next stop, for their underrated dum chai and bun maska. However, if your cravings are too heavy for a simple tea, Ram Ki Bandi is your go-to stop, serving the best varieties of fusion dosas, tasty idlis, upma and vada. With so many outlets for the eatery, a simple google search will guide you to the nearest one.
If the sun is overhead, it’s time to hunt the holy trinity of biriyanis. Hotel Shadab reels you back into Charminar road, as they serve the traditional Hyderabadi biriyani in its unforgettable flavour and aroma. The restaurant’s mutton biriyani is their most popular dish. 'Paradise' is the paradise for Hyderabad’s biriyani lovers, often dubbed the ultimate biriyani spot in the city. The third member of the holy trinity is The Nawaabs restaurant, serving tender meat in their most popular mutton biriyani. The culinary marvels of the city do not end here, as you can also try Nayaab or Shah Ghouse for their paya, Pista house’s Haleem, and Pathar ka gosht at Shahi Dastarkhwan.
To top off a filling lunch, you can visit one of the many markets in Hyderabad, including Shilparamam, a unique arts and crafts village in Madhapur, and Laad Bazaar (or Churi Bazaar), the kilometre-long road selling all kinds of souvenirs and accessories. Visiting Laad Bazar is intertwined with visiting the symbol of Hyderabad, i.e. Charminar.
Tender is the night, to see and feel the city
For those curious about the four minarets, officially incorporated into the emblem of the state, Charminar is best viewed at night. Built in the year 1591 AD by Sultan Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah, to acknowledge the elimination of plague, the monument has four ornate pillars supported by four grand arches. The area surrounding Charminar is heaven for tourists, replete with bazaars, and a grand mosque and a panoramic view of the city. Like most of the other structures that are part of this list, Charminar also boasts a complex architecture with stunning arches and minarets.
The final destination of the trip could ideally be a drive through necklace road, that sits like a necklace around the Hussain Sagar lake. Furthermore, the road has so much more to offer than a simple night-time stroll, which is for you to discover on your next Hyderabad trip.
As Sarojini Naidu wrote in the poem, Nightfall in the City of Hyderabad, “Round the high Char Minar sounds of gay cavalcades blend with the music of cymbals and serenades. Over the city bridge Night comes majestical, borne like a queen to a sumptuous festival."
