The most ancient temple in India, the Brihadeeswara temple, and its architecture have always held me in awe. I first visited the Brihadeeswara temple in 2019 when I wanted to write about the banks of Cauvery in detail. Called the rice bowl of south India, Thanjavur is a temple town, rich in culture and etched in beauty.
Known for its picturesque paddy fields and the thalaiyatti bommai or the dancing dolls, Thanjavur is most revered for the 1000-year-old massive temple or the periya kovil. With many names, be it the Thanjavur periya kovil or the peruvaidyar kovil, the Brihadeeswara temple is the oldest temple built during the Chola era by emperor Raja Raja I between 985 and 1013 AD.
A jewel in the crown of Raja Raja Chola, Thanjavur temple was built, and the sacred dedication followed it in 1010 during his reign as the king in the 11th century. It was the 25th year of Raja Raja Chola’s reign. A self-styled monarch who was well-versed in art and architecture, he was a true devotee and staunch follower of lord Shiva. The Brihadeeswara temple is the outcome of Raja Raja’s love for architecture. A walk through the inner Piraharams or the precincts of the temple, the many tall Gopurams, from entrance to inside, the huge towers, and the number of shrines inside the campus feature the Dravidian style of architecture. The temple is spread across 750 feet by 400 feet in a fort surrounded by a moat.
The temple entrance is a magical magnificence. The 216-foot huge gopuram or the vimanam (towering roof) pierces the sky, and just two eyes will not be enough to look up. The vimanam at the entrance is built with stones without bonding and there are no inundations or incisions at the end of the stones connecting each other. The culverts or the inscriptions in the temple say that the topmost stone on the tower, weighing 80 tons, was lifted up to build the dome-like structure. It took 15 years to build just the temple tower, and as a whole, the tower alone weighs 13,000 tons. The sky-high tower, without its shadow falling on the ground, continues to enthral architects and expert engineers.
The locals and the tourist guides narrate an interesting story when you ask them about the top stone of the temple tower. They say that a ramp was built from the village called Sarapallam, which is four miles away from the temple. The ramp was built to roll the heavy stones and take them to the top of the tower with the help of elephants. The shape of the tower echoes Mount Kailash, it is said.
As you cross the temple tower and walk into the portals of the temple, you will be awestruck by yet another aspect. The monolithic Nandi, or the bull-like structure in a sitting posture, usually seen in all Shiva temples, is 12 feet high, sitting on a huge pedestal. But here, the Nandi is a larger-than-life structure, which is considered to be the second largest Nandi across the country. It is said that the original Nandi, which was built by Raja Raja Chola, is a smaller structure that sits in the outer pathway and that this large Nandi was built during the Nayak period after Raja Raja Chola’s reign.
As we cross the Nandi, the path leads to the sanctum sanctorum, flanked by two Dwarapalakas or the guardian deities. The two deities, dressed in white dhotis, are elegant sculptures etched in beauty. The other deities around the inner precinct, like the Dakishnamioorthy and goddess Yogalakshmi, are beautifully carved and shine even without any jewellery or ornaments. And inside the sanctum sanctorum is the gigantic Lingam or the Lord Shiva structure. Called Brihadeeswara, it is about 8.7 metres high.
Around the inner and outer precincts or the courtyards are several scriptures of Shiva in different forms, idols of Lord Nataraja and exciting Chola paintings. And beside the sanctum sanctorum is a hidden corridor. Usually, visitors are not allowed to enter this corridor. The history has it that this corridor is rich in heritage and culture with paintings and carvings, which was a treasure trove of the Chola kings. Then, there are several sculptures on the wall, and dancers and saints celebrate their king.
As we come out to the outer courtyard of the temple, there is a portrait of Raja Raja Chola with his teacher, Karuvur Devar. It is said that Karuvur Devar was the brain behind building the temple, so there is a special shrine dedicated to him.
But just one visit or one day is not enough to enjoy the beauty of the Brihadeeswara temple and two eyes are not enough to capture it in your memory. Every time you visit, you will have an amazing experience seeing the sculptures and the paintings on the wall. And a morning walk in the courtyard will apparently help you cross the walking targets you set on your smartwatch.
So pack your bags. Land in the rice bowl of South India and walk into the temple. Do the morning walk, get healthy, enjoy the architecture, and be blessed by Lord Shiva, as well.
