Luxury is a buzzword on many levels these days. It is no longer the exclusive domain of the super wealthy. In fact, the very wealthy are looking at exclusivity at another level. While wannabes and the nouveau riche hanker after big brands, the wealthy seek out services that most have not even heard of. In most cases, one associates luxury with a physical product: a handbag, perfume or jewellery. Luxury extends beyond all of that. Though it can be physical, like a pair of vintage Chanel shoes, more often it is the perfect spa massage or green room access to a rockstar. Luxury has become about making the unattainable attainable. The trend at the moment is to introduce India into the products. Who can argue with a 6,000-year-old clothing legacy that lives and breathes every day through millions? That itself calls for worldwide celebration. There are more Indian motifs than ever before on products like crockery and glassware. Beauty and spa services, too, have become more Indianised, incorporating Ayurveda and ancient beauty potions. It looks, sounds and feels truly luxurious to both the Indian and the international consumer. Brands like Forest Essentials, Good Earth and Nappa Dori are cases in point. I recommend all our hotels, clothing brands, beauty and holistic spas that are making India attractive to the millennials by giving it a totally new avatar while retaining its ancient core.
The Indian consumer frankly has the best of all worlds. They have more choices to exercise. They also have access to products that the international consumer is unaware of, like a pooja thali. Over the years, many international brands have attempted to cater to this exclusive Indian, from saris by Hermes to Bollywood-inspired Louboutin footwear. The Indian consumer is also unique as she lives in a world that bridges the east and the west. There is remarkable fusion when a lehenga choli meets European couture. Or when European jewels are inspired by Indian motifs and accents.
Over the years, the fashion industry has become more disciplined. Clients have become more demanding as they have a plethora of choices. When I arrived on the scene in 1988, there were two aesthetics: the Maharajah look, with rich brocades and embroideries, and the Bollywood bling-marries-hippie kitsch look. I brought in minimalism, eco and resort wear. Since then, each year we have new aesthetics and philosophies to celebrate India. I also developed a respect for the sari from the great sari gang—Jasleen Dhamija, Jaya Jaitley, Laila Tyabji and the ladies of their style. The other day, I was in awe of textile revivalist Bela Sanghvi’s Patan Patola saris.
When it comes to luxury, high end is not the barometer. I own shawls and clothing heirlooms that are not branded, but they are high luxury. Luxury, to me, is beauty raised to an art form that does not deserve a price tag.
Wendell Rodricks is an award-winning fashion designer and author.
As told to Anjuly Mathai.
Panellists pick
* Versatile sari: Different drapes and distinctive blouse patterns transform a versatile sari into a chic statement. An organza kaftan blouse is perfect for a daywear look and the same sari worn with a one-shoulder metallic blouse can change into a sharp evening look.
* Jewellery: One strong accessory which lends texture to the entire look is important. An antique gold piece of jewellery teamed with an Indo-western look or layered fabric jewellery on a monochrome solid look can do the job.
* Miscellaneous: Handmade luxury accessories from M Industry, London; ready-to-wear handbags and accessories from The Row store by the Olsen sisters; and colourful knitwear from the Italian fashion house Missoni.