Through her company Guestronomy, which is on a mission to “redefine the art and heart of hospitality”, Sareeka John has curated many delectable culinary experiences, including food pop-ups showcasing the richness of global flavours, and food and wine trails like ‘The Grape Escapade’ in Nashik and ‘Flavours of the Desert’ in Rajasthan. She was also one of the 100 jury members for the fourth edition of Conde Nast Traveller’s Top Restaurant Awards, which were announced on October 9. Here, she tells THE WEEK about what went into judging the restaurants, what are the current culinary trends, and how Indian restaurants weathered the pandemic.
Q/ How did you choose the restaurants?
A/ I had to vote for 10 restaurants across India―seven from my city/ south India, and three from anywhere else in the country. I had to rate each restaurant on food, service and ambience on a scale of one to five. Another criteria was that I should have dined at the restaurants within the past three months. They selected people from 13 cities across India who are food critics, influencers and tastemakers. I primarily selected restaurants from south India, particularly in Bengaluru and Chennai.
Q/ So which cities are ahead in the awards?
A/ Mumbai is a natural choice, with several acclaimed restaurants. Additionally, Bengaluru saw a notable presence, while Pondicherry and Goa emerged as sought-after food destinations.
Q/ Can you tell us about some culinary trends in the country?
A/ Foraging, using local and seasonal ingredients, supporting local vendors, ethnic and regional flavours with a twist, sustainability and food narratives have gained popularity. Pairing drinks―not just wine pairing, but infused cocktails with local ingredients―with dishes is on the rise, along with bar takeovers, chef-driven initiatives, and educational dining experiences, all aimed at enhancing the connection between diners and food.
Q/ Any changes in the restaurant scene after the pandemic?
A/ A substantial contrast is evident. Much like the concept of "revenge tourism," we now have "revenge dining". The initial closure of numerous restaurants during the pandemic was disheartening, but the remarkable resurgence and innovative efforts displayed by those returning are commendable.
Q/ I noticed that this is the third time that Indian Accent is topping the list.
A/ Tradition and innovation remain a winning combination. Indian Accent was my top choice, notably during their restaurant takeover at the JW Marriott in Bengaluru. They executed it brilliantly, drawing inspiration from familiar flavours that evoke a sense of nostalgia and wonder. The trend nowadays is leaning towards tasting menus, offering diverse small bites. Diners seek not just a meal but a complete interactive experience. Chef Manish Mehrotra's personal touch by visiting each table adds significant value. Today, knowing the chef behind your meal matters, and the interaction has become paramount. With increased exposure, diners have more questions, and chefs readily engage, creating a multifaceted dining experience.
Q/ Are there any ingredients or superfoods that are trending now?
A/ Moringa, millets and the incredibly versatile jackfruit have become prominent ingredients in various cuisines. Jackfruit, in particular, has gained popularity as an excellent source of plant-based protein and offers a sustainable alternative to meat, making it a valuable addition to contemporary and eco-conscious diets.
Q/ What do you look for in a good restaurant?
A/ Food is undeniably crucial, but it is not the sole factor. For instance, I recently visited a restaurant, and the overall experience―from lighting to music―was quite discordant. Even before the food arrived, I had already formed an impression that certain aspects were not working.
At a restaurant, there are numerous elements that shape your experience before the food hits the table. From the moment you step inside, you are unintentionally assessing the ambience, the quality of service, staff knowledge about the menu, choice of music and even the lighting. All these factors establish the mood well before the meal is served. It is no longer just about "food first eaten by the eye"; it is about having expectations even before the dish arrives.
Q/ Your favourite restaurant in India?
A/ One of my personal favourites is the new Burma Burma restaurant in Bengaluru, despite my preference for non-vegetarian fare and the restaurant being exclusively vegetarian. The attention to detail in their offerings is truly commendable. However, it is tricky to make broad generalisations, because the dining experience can be highly subjective. It hinges on your menu choices. Even at the same restaurant, your experience can be vastly different. A dish you select could be their standout, but someone else's experience might differ entirely.
Q/ What was your experience like being a jury member for Conde Nast Traveller’s Top Restaurant Awards?
A/ Post-pandemic, it was a delight to witness everyone at their best. The industry demonstrates a remarkable sense of camaraderie and support. The judging was just one facet of the experience. What made it truly exceptional was the collaborative nature of the culinary world. Individuals from across India aspire to engage with Kochi, and there is a palpable interest in this market. The excitement and collaboration in the industry are remarkable. As always, food serves as a unifying force, fostering connections and experiences. This is evident in the rapid sell-out of our food trails to Thar, reflecting the widespread enthusiasm for exploring places and cultures through food. The focus is shifting towards a more food-centric approach.