Russia is undoubtedly an unconventional choice for a holiday destination in 2023. Visiting a country in the throes of war, and deemed an enemy of the west, seems like walking into the lion’s den. Surprisingly, it was quite the opposite, not least because Russia, being the aggressor, has contained the war to within Ukraine. Barring a few drone attacks, there has barely been aggression on Russian soil.
Thus, after getting assurances from contacts in Russia that life in the two largest cities, Saint Petersburg and Moscow, was carrying on as normal, a long pending trip, cancelled multiple times for various reasons, came to fruition in August.
Before the pandemic, Russia was a much sought-after destination, and flights and hotels were quickly booked up during the summer months, when the weather is warm and at its best. For a large part of the year, the country experiences sub-zero temperatures, hence the weather window to enjoy the sights and outdoors is short. Americans flocked there in droves and an increasing number of Indians were visiting year-on-year.
A country with a fascinating history, beautiful buildings, meticulously maintained museums, numerous monuments, monasteries and churches, grand palaces, breathtaking gardens, and rivers bustling with activity, there is simply so much to see and do in summertime Russia.
While its streets were bereft of international tourists this year, Russian tourists were aplenty. With travel sanctions imposed upon them because of the war, Russians have chosen to travel within their own vast country this summer; so instead of a week in Spain, it is a week in Sochi, and those from Sochi are visiting the sights of Saint Petersburg.
As New Delhi has taken a ‘neutral’ stance on the war, Indians are very welcome. In fact, because of the overall reduction in tourists, hotel rooms are plentiful, tickets to sought-after sights are easily available, streets and museums are less crowded, and because of the falling rouble, eating out, accommodation and entertainment has never been cheaper.
In Saint Petersburg and Moscow, you would be hard-pressed to tell that this was a country at war. Streets and sidewalks were bustling with musicians, artists and teens making dance videos for TikTok, diners were enjoying long, languorous lunches alfresco, parks were swarming with people making the most of the glorious summer weather, and rivers, lakes and waterways were teeming with boats and water sports.
Theatres and dance performances were in full swing. We saw a new production of the The Nutcracker ballet at Saint Petersburg’s famous Mariinksy Theatre. There were no signs of any war-time austerity; the sets and costumes were spectacular, and the production pulled out all the stops.
After Russia invaded Ukraine, many international companies pulled out of Russia; some remained. When multinational fast-food chain McDonald's pulled out, a Russian firm took over their restaurants, using a different name and logo but serving the same fare. Burger King, however, is still very much around. There are coffee shops that looks exactly like Starbucks, with a slightly different name and logo. Many international fashion brands, too, shut shop. Their withdrawal meant a plethora of empty shop spaces in prime localities. This led to the burgeoning of local fashion brands, some of which are now thriving.
After the war began, many Russian banks were banned from the SWIFT international payment messaging system. Major international credit card companies like Mastercard, Visa and American Express, too, withdrew their services from Russia.
Some hotels, however, are still accepting Visa or Mastercard credit cards issued in India. To pay for other travel expenses, the only way is to change dollars or other currency into roubles. This can be easily done at several banks and money exchanges that are open around the clock, seven days a week.
In many countries in Europe these days, pickpocketing and homelessness is rampant. Moscow and Saint Petersburg, however, did not have either of these. Streets were safe and spotless, thanks to the government-sponsored cleaning system that works like clockwork.
While we entered Russia with trepidation, cautious not to discuss sensitive topics such as the war in Ukraine or President Vladimir Putin, we found that our tour guides were happy to discuss these factors openly and were unafraid to express their opinion. Professional, licensed tour guides in Russia are highly educated, knowledgeable and articulate since they need to pass multiple exams to qualify and are required to frequently update their licenses.
Our guides in Saint Petersburg and Moscow, all of whom spoke excellent English, were unanimous in their opinion that Russia was a resilient country and would be able to withstand external pressure or sanctions. “If you stop selling us Parmesan cheese, we will make our own Parmesan cheese,” said Julia, 46, a tour guide in Saint Petersburg, as we walked towards the renowned State Hermitage Museum.
The war, however, has gone on longer than anticipated, and both Russia and Ukraine have lost a large number of troops. “The war has lasted so long because Russia is fighting not only with Ukraine, but also with the US, Europe and the UK,” said Aitan, 48, a professional tour guide in Saint Petersburg who took us on a tour of the magnificent Peterhof Palace and its exquisite gardens.
“The price of human life was never high here; group interests always dominated personal ones, for better or worse,” said Svetlana, 49, a teacher and tour guide in Moscow, as she walked us through the Red Square, adjacent to the Kremlin. “Russia has substantially high resources of people, minerals, and incredibly gold reserves. It seems like Russia is quite ready for long-term military operations. Ukraine’s harsh resistance was unexpected, and its military readiness was underestimated.”
As the war drags into its 19th month, Ukraine’s allies and neighbours are getting weary. On September 20, amid growing tension between Kyiv and Warsaw over a dispute regarding grain exports, Polish Prime Minster Mateusz Morawiecki, said that Poland would no longer be supplying weapons to Ukraine. Recent polls have shown that the American public, too, are growing weary. Republicans are opposed to President Joe Biden’s latest request to Congress for $24 billion for additional aid to Ukraine.
Russians, in general, have strong feelings about American influence on the war and in world politics. “America influences most of the world to favour itself,” said Aitan. “It gets whatever it wants by exerting pressure on other countries.” Added Svetlana: “In general, there is a strong opinion that the US influence keeps many countries from helping Russia or trading with it.”
Their views, however, were varied on Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy. “He was a comedian and I don’t take him seriously; he doesn’t have the education to rule the country,” said Aitan, as we discussed the war on the drive back from the opulent Catherine’s Palace on the outskirts of St. Petersburg. Svetalana said that though many Russians view him as western pawn, she did not, and felt sorry for him and the position he had been put in. Her friend, Lana, 53, who is also a tour guide in Moscow, too, is supportive. “Zelenskyy is the democratically elected president of Ukraine,” she said. “Russian propaganda works hard to persuade people that he is a puppet of the US and NATO.”
Do they think NATO will admit Ukraine? “Whatever Russians think about the Americans, we don’t consider them stupid enough to do so,” said Svetalana. “Americans are used to fighting with others’ hands.”
In spite of difficulties faced in recent times, opinion polls show that Putin remains the most popular politician in the country. In August, his approval rating stood at 80 per cent, higher that before the invasion of Ukraine, according to the Levada Centre. “Many people will say they like Putin, but many will refuse to say anything,” said Lana. “Russians are very cautious about expressing any criticism towards the president.” Who do they think will succeed Putin? “We are used to our leaders appearing from nowhere,” said Svetlana, as we view one of the Stalinist-era buildings in Moscow. “Who expected [Mikhail] Gorbachev, the youngest of all politburo members, to succeed [Konstantin] Chernenko? Who knew Putin before he was appointed by [Boris] Yeltsin? Russian history is full of surprises. Let us see.”
What do they think about Indians and India?
“Russians find Indians friendly, kind, and happy people,” said Lana. “They consider India a fast-developing, beautiful country with rich history and culture.” Svetlana said that Russians from older generations “still cherish warm memories of the once-strong and warm ties” with India. “Hindi movies used to be very popular in Soviet Russia,” she said. “In my mother’s generation they all knew Raj Kapoor’s song from Awaara by heart. In my youth, we were crazy about Mithun Chakraborty’s Disco Dancer.
Surnames of tour guides have been omitted to protect identity. All opinions expressed are personal.