India may soon have its own bullet train, but not everyone is looking forward to it. Certainly not Mahabir Prasand. The anganwadi worker in rural Rajasthan is a regular in the only narrow-gauge train in the Indian plains.
“The slow speed and the comfort of travelling attracted me to the train,” he said. “It is a pleasure travelling on it during the monsoons.”
The narrow-gauge line between Dholpur and Sarmathura has weathered many storms. With all other narrow-gauge tracks (except those in the hills; see box) converted into broad-gauge ever since the railway ministry embarked on a massive conversion spree in the early 1990s, work has already begun on converting this route as well. But, for now, it continues to be the lifeline of many in rural Rajasthan. The five coaches, hauled by a diesel engine, make two trips every day―first at 4am and second at 10:40am. Tickets are priced at 030 to Tantpur and Rs45 to Sarmathura.
The track was constructed by Ram Singh, the maharaja of Dholpur, back in 1905―the service started three years later―primarily to ferry the red sandstones for which Dholpur and surrounding areas are famous.
While minor maintenance of the engine and coaches is done locally, major overhauling is done in Mumbai. There are no narrow-gauge tracks for the train to travel beyond Dholpur. The engine is lifted and loaded onto a truck for the 1,000km-plus road journey.
The narrow-gauge trains up in the hills―be it the UNESCO World Heritage Committee inscribed Darjeeling Himalayan Railways or the famous Nilgiri Mountain Railways―are well known with tourists flocking to these places from all over the country. Today, the Dholpur narrow-gauge track is half-forgotten. Nevertheless, a journey in it is an enticing prospect―passing through idyllic hamlets, verdant fields and earthy stone quarries.
The passengers are primarily villagers travelling to buy medicines, groceries and fertilisers. School children also hop in once in a while, while some intrepid boys race their cycles alongside, trying to outpace the slow-moving train.
Shree Bhagwan Meena, 49, works as an attendant in the rail route. His father and grandfather worked in the same position. Meena grew up hearing stories on how the train used to ferry stones from the quarries.
“My grandfather’s tales got me attracted to the job,” said Meena.
He may also tell his grandchildren tales about the train, but they won’t be as fortunate as him.
REMAINING NARROW-GAUGE SERVICES
1 Kalka to Shimla
2 New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling
3 Pathankot to Joginder Nagar
4 Matheran to Neral
5 Coonoor to Udagamandalam