A simulated battle between two Nihangs.
Horsemen exhibit their skills.
A Nihang Sikh woman showcasing her skills.
Amidst the colourful celebrations of Holi, a unique tradition unfolds in the streets of Anandpur Sahib in Punjab. Hola Mohalla, a three-day carnival that celebrates the martial arts tradition of Sikhs, wakes up the sleepy town nestled in the Shivalik foothills along the banks of the Sutlej. People from across north India pour in to witness the festival.
Hola Mohalla was founded by Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh guru, in the 17th century. Soon, it became an occasion for the Nihangs (warrior Sikhs) to showcase their martial skills in simulated battles. “Each year, the sacred grounds of Anandpur Sahib witness a convergence of Sikhs, with as many as 60 lakh devotees flocking to partake in the festivities that range from display of gatka [martial arts] to horse riding and soulful recitations of bhajans, all paying homage to the indomitable spirit of Sikh warriors,” said Kanwardeep Singh, tourist officer.
High spirits: a young Nihang showcasing his martial skills.
Day one sets the tone for the grandeur to follow. People cutting across ages arrive in a cavalcade of tractors, bikes, trucks, and buses. Along with them are the revered Nihangs. Distinguished by their unique attire and adherence to a strict code of conduct, the Nihangs meticulously set up their abodes, spread across the fields around Anandpur Sahib, for the duration of the festival.
Horses are tied between the tents. “Setting a camp is an important exercise of warcraft. And there are kitchen units and a place for worship housed in different tents,” said Chiranjeev Singh, a 26-year-old Nihang. Having studied economics in Australia, Singh has been attending Hola Mohalla since he was 16, embodying the fusion of tradition and modernity.
Vim and vigour: a Nihang Sikh with his sword.
Hola Mohalla begins to crescendo on the final day, as the town reverberates with the rhythmic beats from processions of Sikhs adorned in traditional attire. Led by the Nihangs, the procession winds its way from Gurudwara Sri Shaheedi Bagh Sahib to the revered Gurudwara Takht Sri Kesgarh.
The showstopper is when horsemen exhibit their skills at the Charan Ganga Stadium in a marriage of horsemanship and swordplay. The jam-packed stadium becomes a mock battlefield of sorts, with every Nihang trying to outsmart the other.
As the ground trembles beneath the thundering hooves of horses and the resounding clash of swords, Hola Mohalla emerges not just as a festival, but as a living testament to the unwavering spirit of the Sikhs.