Anita Dongre became the first Indian fashion designer to open a flagship store in New York when she opened the 1,500 sq ft store of her youngest retail brand, Grassroot. Grassroot offers modern silhouettes from traditional woven fabrics, an eco-friendly brand that is created by skilled artisans. The brand was launched in April 2015. In April this year, Dongre announced her plans of opening two stores in the Big Apple—Grassroot and Anita Dongre bridal wear.
The designer also has other labels like AND which sells western wear, Global Desi that embodies boho chic style and Pink City, a line of Jaipur-inspired traditional jewellery. The Queen of Pret, as she is known among the fashion fraternity, has been a consistent champion of sustainable fashion, traditional textiles and local artisans.
The new Grassroot on Broome Street, is located in the historic 1890 Romanesque Revival masonry building, designed by architect Alfred Zucker. The interiors of the store has been designed by architect Shonan Trehan. Accented by rose gold, cork and elements from recycled wood, it also has panels made from chanderi and khadi.
The designer talks to THE WEEK about why she chose to open a store in New York and shares her plans for her second store in the city.
What inspired you to open Grassroot store in New York?
Grassroot is the embodiment of my core passion—to design beautiful clothes that have a purpose. These are contemporary clothes that use traditional handwoven fabrics, embroideries and other textile crafts that are thousands of years old. New York reflects this juxtaposition and I have always loved its multicultural vibe and inherent sense of fashion. This city and its openness for global fashion is the best platform to celebrate the finesse of Indian craftsmanship.
Do you think it will strike a chord there?
I am finding that as a world, we are united in wanting to do better—for ourselves and for the planet—and we demand the same from all parts of our lives. At its core, Grassroot is about respecting our planet, artisans and their skills. We do this by empowering highly skilled rural communities through sustainable work. There is an underlying universal message in all of Grassroot's clothes that is sure to strike a chord with anybody who feels as strongly as I do about respecting human beings, animals, Mother Nature and our planet.
People in the West seem to be very much in tune with fair trade practices, ethically sourced materials and labour. To what extent has the awareness gained momentum in India?
The active involvement and thoughtful initiatives of the Union Textiles Minister Smriti Irani have accelerated the spread of this awareness. A lot of mainstream designers are creating conscious fashion using Indian textiles and crafts. Fashion schools are also doing fantastic work in sensitising the design community to these relevant issues.
What do you have in mind with regards to the Anita Dongre store in New York?
As always, the bridal couture brand is about the experience. The focus here is to make it easier for a bride, groom and their family based in America to enjoy the complete Anita Dongre experience and bespoke services at the store without having to travel halfway across the world to find what they are looking for.
How do you see Grassroot carving a niche in New York?
Only time will tell.
You have been working with NGOs and artisans to revive dying weaving techniques for Grassroot. How viable is it to give it back to the artists?
Grassroot was born out of the need to provide steady opportunities to India’s skilled artisan communities through reinterpreting heirloom traditions from the heart of Indian villages. Grassroot was conceived to solve real world problems through great design—and to me, it is a question of need, outweighing any other question. Through working with small, focussed clusters we ensure sustainable work opportunities, providing artisans with a dependable source of income. These are proud artisans and they need nothing more than the opportunity to receive consistent work and be paid respectfully for their impeccable artistry.
What do you like the most about New York?
The coexistence of multiple cultures and the thrill of it all.
What do you like the most about being a fashion designer?
I enjoy the entire process of designing. I definitely have to face a fair share of challenges in order to manage multiple brands with such different identities, but I love every moment of it.
What were the initial challenges you faced when you started out as a designer?
I come from a traditional family where the women were always homemakers. They did not have professional careers outside the home. I had to overcome my family’s resistance initially but once they showed their support, there was no looking back. I was the first woman who took up a job and stepped out of the comfort of the home.
How did you build your brands to the successes they are today?
Work is my religion. I stand true to my beliefs and work hard every day.
