Raw papaya is not a popular vegetable. But these green plane Janes pack a punch with plenty of nutrients, minerals and enzymes. Perhaps our ancestors were well aware of its nutritive value as raw papaya found a place in their daily meals, and many savouries and sweets were made from it.
Today, very few people in India are familiar with papaya as a vegetable and even fewer use it in daily cooking. It is quite common to hear people talk of the nutritional properties of ripe papaya but few realise that eating raw papaya is equally, if not more, beneficial. Though India is one of the largest cultivators of papaya and the ripe fruit is easily available in most parts of the country, green papaya is not a common sight in vegetable markets.
“We grew up without pizzas or burgers. On most days our meals were simple dal and rice with seasonal vegetables,” says 40-year-old Sneha Jha, a banker from Patna. “Vegetables like bitter gourd, pumpkin and papaya were a regular part of our meals. Sadly, the newer generation will not know the joy of eating papaya relish with parantha on a silky winter morning or sweet papaya fry with plain dal and rice.”
Benefits galore
Adding raw papaya to your daily diet can have numerous health benefits. It is gentle on the digestive system and has hence been used as a home remedy for children suffering from jaundice, chickenpox or typhoid. “Papaya has many healing properties and raw papaya is also used in ayurvedic treatments,” says Sanjiv Krishna, an ayurvedic consultant. “We recommend the use of papaya to balance vata and pitta doshas. In fact, green papaya is used for treating gastrointestinal problems, pancreatic infections, intestinal worms and liver ailments.”
Delhi-based lifestyle nutrition consultant Tripti Gupta adds that raw papaya has been used by our previous generations as a pickle to prevent sea sickness and giddiness.
Prevents constipation: Green papaya helps digestion and regulates bowel movement. “The high fibre content of raw papaya aids movement of food in the intestine. The nutrients present in raw papaya help clean out the stomach. Raw papaya also absorbs water in the stomach and helps soften the stools,” says Sanjiv.
Wound healing: The good enzymes in raw papaya hasten the wound healing process and relieve skin irritation. “Green papaya has many enzymes which help correct skin pigmentation caused by sun damage and improper pH levels,” says Tripti.
Improves lactation: Raw papaya is a galactagogue—a food that naturally promotes breast milk production. Traditionally, it is used as a treatment for new mothers whose breast milk production is not adequate. “Eating raw papaya is better than taking chemical supplements and medicines to increase lactation in new mothers,” says Sanjiv.
Reduces menstrual pain: Women benefit from eating raw papaya as it helps ease contraction and pain during menstruation, says Sanjiv.
Helps dengue patients: The juice of papaya leaf and raw papaya has gained prominence among dengue patients as it is said to have platelet-increasing properties. Some researchers have also stated that raw papaya helps control the progression of diabetes. “Raw papaya helps in fighting diabetes. It also helps with hypertension and migraines. People suffering from dengue and malaria are advised to eat more green papaya,” says Tripti.
An abortifacient or a myth?
A common myth about raw papaya is that it is an abortifacient—a food that causes abortion. In fact, pregnant women are advised against eating raw papaya. Though this is a strong belief held in many Indian communities, there is very little scientific evidence to support it. On the other hand, ripe papaya is advocated as a super food for pregnant women as it provides natural iron and calcium for the growing foetus.
Culinary creations
Despite its restricted availability, raw papaya has found a place in different cuisines of our country. Papaya is a part of Bengali, Assamese, Odiya and Bihari cuisines. Raw papaya is used to make fry, mash or stir-fry side dishes. It is combined with dal, fish, meat or other vegetables to make some signature dishes like Omitar Khar, Dalma and chorchuri. “Raw papaya and til halwa is a delicacy in winters in some houses of Kakori. In Gujarat, during winter raw papaya is grated into a sambharo, served with snacks and also eaten as a subzi. It is used as one of the components in chorchoris in Bengal and also used to make chutney,” says celebrity chef Ranveer Brar. Raw papaya is also used in Kerala cuisine. “It is not widely used here in cooking like in other northern states, but it is mostly used in making thoran [stir fry with some tadka and grated coconut],” says Famidha Ashraf, a Malayali food blogger and home cook.
“Raw papaya adds a great crunchy texture to recipes and soaks up flavours really well,” says Brar. “It can also be used for fine dine recipes as a salad, remoulade or as a mash. I have even tried doing a fermented raw papaya sauce for my gnocchi with raw papaya.”
Raw papaya is popular in India as a meat tenderiser. “Papayas contain papain, an enzyme that helps digest proteins, so it has been used to tenderise meat for kebabs and biryani for hundreds of years,” says chef Agnimitra Sharma, executive chef at Vivanta by Taj-Yeshwantpur, Bengaluru. “Many modern cooks simply do not understand how to use papaya as a galawat. One should use green papaya with skin, ground and made into a paste. Meat marinated with this paste is soft and tender and cooks quickly.”
One of the lesser known facts about raw papaya is that it can be used to make jams, jellies and preserves. Papaya has a relatively high amount of pectin, which is a natural agglutination agent. When added to fruit juices, pectin thickens and helps them set. In India, this property of pectin is used to make chutney, halwa and murabba (preserve). “I have had all three and absolutely loved them. My favourite though is the raw papaya murabba,” says chef Brar.
So, if you like papaya, find the best way to incorporate it into your diet and reap its myriad health benefits.
Rendang Baklava
By Chef Ranveer Brar
Ingredients
* Soya granules (soaked in warm water): 50gm
* Raw papaya (chopped): 25gm
* Raw papaya (julienned): 50gm
* Vegetable oil: 1tbsp
* Cinnamon stick: 1
* Star anise: 1
* Cardamom pods: 2
* Cloves: 2
* Lemongrass bottom: 1 stalk
* Coconut milk: 60ml
* Coconut (grated): 25gm
* Palm jaggery (grated): 1tsp
* Salt: 1/2tsp
* Kaffir lime leaf (thinly sliced): 1
* Turmeric powder: a pinch
* Dried chillies (seeded, soaked in warm water): 2
* Galangal (sliced): 1 inch
* Ginger (peeled): 1 inch
* Shallots (peeled): 2
* Garlic (peeled): 2 cloves
* Ground coriander: 1/2tsp
* Ground cumin: 1/2tsp
* Ground fennel: 1/2tsp
* Filo pastry: 2 sheets
* Butter (melted): 1tbsp
* Almond milk: 1tbsp
* Xanthan: a pinch
* Sriracha sauce: 1tsp
* Olive oil: 1tsp
* Mayonnaise: ½ tsp
* Lime zest: ½ tsp
Method:
For Rendang Mixture
* Blend the dried chillies, galangal, ginger, shallots and garlic in a blender with water. Transfer to a bowl. Add ground coriander, cumin and fennel. Mix into a paste.
* Heat vegetable oil in a pot. Stir fry cinnamon sticks, star anise, cardamom pods, cloves, lemongrass and spice paste over medium heat until fragrant.
* Add soya granules and raw papaya. Give it a good stir to coat with spices. Then add coconut milk. Stir occasionally.
* In the meantime, toast (without oil) grated coconut in a frying pan, stirring constantly over low heat until golden brown. Transfer to a mortar and pound toasted coconut into a paste. Set aside.
* Add jaggery, salt, pounded toasted coconut paste, kaffir lime leaf and turmeric powder. Continue to cook for 10 minutes. Keep aside for cooling.
For almond milk
* Blend almond milk and xanthan together and keep aside.
For chilli lime aioli
* Blend together sriracha, lime zest and mayo.
For salad
* Toss up raw papaya juliennes with lemon juice and salt.
For baklava
* Preheat oven to 180 degrees C/ 350 degrees F.
* Layer three sheets of filo pastry that has been brushed with butter. Keep rendang mixture over the filo pastry and roll it into a ¾ inch diameter roll. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden.
* Cut into small pieces, and serve with almond milk and chilli lime aioli.
Papaya Relish (Sweet Papaya Pickle)
By Agnimitra Sharma, executive chef, Vivanta by Taj-Yeshwantpur, Bengaluru
Ingredients
* Raw papaya (sliced): 1 kilo
* Vinegar: 1.5l
* Water: 500ml
* Sugar: 750gm
* Dry red chillies: 50gm
* Melon seeds: 50gm
* Raisins: 50gm
* Black onion seeds: 25gm
* Fennel seeds: 25gm
Method
* Cook sliced raw papaya with vinegar and water in a stock pot.
* When it is 80 per cent done, add sugar, raisins, melon seeds, red chillies, black onion seeds and fennel seeds.
* Cook until well done.
* Allow it to cool and serve cold.
Raw Papaya Parantha
By Famidha Ashraf (lifeinyanbu.blogspot.in)
Ingredients:
For the dough:
* Whole-wheat flour: 2 cups
* alt: 1/2tsp
* Oil: 2tbsp
* Water (to knead): 1 cup
For the stuffing:
* Green/ raw papaya (grated): 2 cups
* Salt: 1/2tsp
* Green chilli (finely chopped): 2-3
* Loosely packed fresh dill (finely chopped) (can be replaced with coriander or mint leaves): 1/2 cup
* Garam masala powder: 1/2tsp
* Dry mango powder: 1tsp or chaat masala: 1/2tsp
* Fennel powder: 1/2tsp
Method:
For the dough:
* Mix the flour, salt, and oil in a wide bowl.
* Add the squeezed out papaya juice and enough water and bring together.
* Knead for five to eight minutes or until you get soft dough.
* Cover the dough and keep aside for 20 minutes.
For the stuffing:
* Add a little salt to the grated papaya and keep aside for 10 to 15 minutes (this is to make it release the moisture).
* Squeeze the grated papaya by taking a handful and pressing it or use any equipment you have and get rid of the moisture/ water.
* Mix in the finely chopped green chilli, dill leaves, garam masala powder, fennel powder, and dry mango powder or chaat masala.
For the raw papaya stuffed dough balls:
* Divide the rested dough into equal-sized balls.
* Dust and roll the dough ball into a 3-inch disc.
* Keep approximately 2 tablespoons of the filling in the middle. Bring together the ends, pinch it to close, twist it, and then gently stuff that portion in the middle of the dough ball.
* Use a fork to punch out the locked air. You will find air bubbles if you lightly press the stuffed dough ball. Doing this will help you to roll the stuffed paranthas neatly.
* Keep it covered and stuff all the other remaining dough balls in a similar way.
For the raw papaya parantha:
* Keep the pan on medium flame so it is ready by the time you roll one.
* Dust your rolling pin and board with some flour and gently roll to make 6-inch disc.
* Place the rolled-out papaya parantha on the hot tawa on medium to high flame (you can start rolling the next one while this gets cooked, but keep an eye on it).
* Drizzle about 1 or 2 teaspoons of ghee on both sides and flip and cook till the parantha is evenly cooked.
* Serve hot with pickle, any yoghurt based dip/ raita or potato masala.
